Thursday 10 September 2015

Tough Turkey

The last two weeks have been physically very hard. I caught the ferry to avoid Istanbul's vast urban sprawl and was soon in peaceful, rural hills. A lot of road signs were missing, as was the road surface in places. Locals gave me directions and many cups of sweet tea. Powered by sugar and caffiiene the climbs seemed easy. Next day I reached the proper mountains, in the heat of the afternoon, with melting tarmac and little shade they were draining. As I crawled up at snail's pace the driver of every other passing car, lorry, motorbike or tractor would wave, hoot their horn or shout "hallo"; by the time I had waved back for the two hundredth time I just wanted them to leave me alone.
Next day I drank water from a great loking water fountain, within hours I was regretting it. I kept going for three more days although I had lost my appetite and was running on empty.
One rest day in the beautiful old city of Amasya turned into three rest days as my stomach bug returned. Several locals had told me not go to far into central or eastern Turkey due to terrorism and the mountainous terrain. Of the the two I was more scared of mountains and so planned a flattish route to the Black Sea. The road turned out to be a tiny, twisting farm track deep into the mountains, I had to back-track and stayed overnight at a teacher hostel. It took two more days of hard riding to reach the coast.
It was a relief to look out over the flat sea rather than wave after wave of mountians. I met another turkish cyclist who had spent one day riding in the mountains before deciding head for the easier coastal road. We rode together to the border town of Hopa. Tomorrow I will go to Georgia.

Great views of Istanbul from the ferry.














The most opulent hotel I have stayed in, so far.














Some of the caves and old houses in Amaya
















Locals helping me with directions and coke.

















 The Black Sea - a welcome sight.


















6 comments:

  1. Hello Dom , I'm following your route on my atlas and yes, Turkey does seem to be er, excessively mountainous ! Still sounds like a great adventure , dodgy water aside . Excellent photos .
    Edward

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  2. Hello Dom. i am looking forward to good news from Georgia after leaving Hopa. i have cycling through Kaçkar mountains up to 2400 metres.it was ice valley at ancient times. it's really impressive, lovely mountain and exactly worth it although some really bad roads and carrying bike. Today i was climbing another valley of Kaçkar under raining. i really want to make world tour like you maybe next year. Good luck have nice tour inşallah.

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    1. Great to hear from you Faith. Climbing a 2000 metre mountain pass on bad roads with luggage is amazing. Georgia has some very poor towns and cities, the people did not seem as friendly as in Turkey. But in Azerbaijan the local people are wonderful. Keep in touch with your plans for more adventures. Best of luck, Dom

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  3. Hi Dom,
    This is becoming a real tale of daring-do. Great stuff!
    Keep pressing on those pedals!
    Cheers,
    Jake.
    PS. Can you do Viber via wifi?
    A real conversation would be good.

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    1. Hello Jake, i go to kazahkstan tomorrow and attempt what some say is the toughest road in the world. In one blog they take 9days to ride 200km. You have to sleep in culverts (drainage tunnels under the road). So no more wi fi for a little bit, but i'll check it out (memory usage and stuff) next time I stay in a hotel. Dom

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    2. Hello Jake,, I tried getting onto vibr but they send an sms code I can't get. On their website they suggest using a trusted local persons mobile number,but then it wouldn't sync up with my contacts. Also east of the caspian sea the internet is at best at dial up speeds. I'll chat with other travellers to see what they do. How are you and your family?

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