Sunday 1 May 2016

Chile - Ouch

Ignoring the "No cycling "signs I rode onto the four lane expressway out of Santiago. I was worried the police would stop me, but they drove on by. Sometimes the four lanes shrunk to two so I waited for a gap in the traffic and was wearing my high vis rain jacket, I got through unscathed. So far.
After 30 miles I had escaped the city and stopped for a toilet break at a cafe. As I got back on my bike there was a bark, a snarl and a a stabbing pain in my right leg. I looked down and saw a dog with its fangs embedded in my calf. I twisted my leg and shouted. The dog let go and trotted away with its mate. At least they looked like healthy animals, but what should I do?
I resolved to ride to the next big town where I could consult Dr Google, check my vaccination record  (which was buried in my luggage) and if necessary see a real doctor. Shortly afterwards I bumped into another cyclist going my way. Actually he was riding home to San Francisco via Argentina. He  spoke fluent Spanish and got us a lift through a couple of long tunnels, the driver dropped me at a town with a hospital, and took him a lot further up the coast.
The next day I saw a pair of touring riders. Two days later they passed me in a truck, their bikes lashed to the back. I don't blame them.
The Pan American  Highway is brutal. It rolls over the foothills of the Andies for the entire length of South America. To my right I sometimes see snow covered peaks, or the profile of volcanoes, sometimes to my left I see the Pacific
Ocean. Sometimes there is an isolated cafe, rarer still a small town or city. All of the tine there is desert. Whether I enjoy the ride entirely depends on the wind direction. You crouch down into a headwind and see little and make slow progress. With a tailwind I sail along, admiring the view, doing perhaps 20mph with no effort.
The forecast is for a week of tailwinds. That should help me conquer the Atacana desert and reach Peru.

Dog bite. Fortunately the dog had a shiney coat, clear eyes and a wet nose. so little risk of rabies.
 Will - the rider from San Francisco - fixing a puncture. He also had been attacked by the dogs, but got away unscathed. 
Surfers  at Antofagasta,  I had a rest day here
 
The Pan American  Highway has a wide hard shoulder to ride on. Many  of the truck drivers say hello as they pass.

6 comments:

  1. The dog obviously liked the look of you. Keep safe x

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  2. Chile has the most aggressive dogs I've met. So now I have a 4 foot bamboo stick to scare them off. Although as its lashed to the back of my bike it looks a bit like an animal's tail. Maybe that's why the dogs still chase me.PS There is no rabies in Chile.

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  3. Oh no! Findog we hope you're okay, can't wait to see you again in year 11, stay safe and enjoy the rest of your trip. From 10o1 and Mr.Ball

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    1. Hello Zak, 10o1 and Mr Ball, good to hear from you. Yes, I am fine, just a little tired. In 3 days I should be in Peru to try and see some of the sights. I hope you are all well and enjoy a great summer. Mr Findon

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  4. Hello Dom , Hope it's only been tail winds that have chased you all the way up that stunning 'film set ' looking Pan American Highway ,although possibly it has'nt !
    Look forward to your next installment .

    Edward

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  5. I'm in the Andes at the moment. There was a great tail wind today, but I was also chased by several sheepdogs. A shepherdess took out a sling shot, spun it around and shot a stone her dogs. That doesn't happen in Dorset.
    Brilliant wildlife, off to Lake Titicaca tomorrow.

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