It took six, scenic days to traverse the Andes from east to west. Once all I did was a 25 mile climb and descent and stopped in the dusty, dodgy town of Abencay. Afternoons were sweatingly hot, and nights were shiveringly cold, so I stayed in little hotels that cost £6 for an en-suite room. In tiny hamlets a basic room costs half that. Meals cost one or two pounds, as does a beer.
I rode through the capital - Lima - apparently there is not much to see there. The traffic was diabolical, it was like riding through fairground dodgems for three hours. I was glad to escape to the empty desert highway again.
In the northern city of Trujillo I stayed at a "casa de cyclist". It opened in the 'eighties, I was guest number 2634. My stay was extended as I got food poisoning. So I listened to podcasts of Desert Island Discs and read a good book.
My final day in Peru took me beside a beautiful coast with empty resorts and busy fishing towns. When I reached the border they fined me $7 for overstaying my visa.
My first impression of Ecuador is that it is very green and very hot. When I have seen more I will give you a more detailed picture.
One of my pannier broke this morning, now I will find someone to mend it. My back tyre is damaged, my right pedal clunks, I am not sure the bike will get to Cuba.
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At the casa de cyclists with the owner - Lucho. He was a champion road racer. |
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The centre of Trujillo has streets of old colonial Spanish buildings and striking wrought iron work. |
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The Andes are lush, green and full of life. |
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A mindwarping 50 mile twisty descent through barren desert gave me a dramatic exit to the Andes. |
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A tiny stretch of coast in northern Peru was picture perfect. |